Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Purple Kush - Easy Guide To Growing Marijuana


1.  Outdoor Growing Guide
2.  Hydroponic Growing Guide
3.  Sea of Green
4.  Seeds
5.  Vegetative
6.  Flowering
7.  Soil and planting Mediums
8.  Lighting
9.  Nutrients, Also N-P-K Definition
10. Drying and Storage
11. Breeding
12. Male or Female?

1.  Outdoor Growing Guide

Outdoor growing, what could be better than getting pot and barely having to do anything to get it. The great thing about outdoor growing is the dedication, you can take a risk and just plant a seed in the ground and see if it will grow on its own. Or you can sprout a seed like purple kush, master kush or any other high yielding strain, plant it in the ground, water it everyday, and give it all the care in the world. The choice is yours, I'm going to outline the part of outdoor growing that you need to know, the one where you give the plant lots of care.
With outdoor growing there are a few disadvantages as well though, they take longer to grow, if you don't plant them at a certain time of year they'll take even longer to grow or wont grow properly. When growing outdoors plant during the summer, preferably closer to the beginning. It is important what time of year you plant the plants because if you plant at the wrong time of year the plants wont bud at the right time, the plants wont bud themselves until they start receiving 11-13 hours a day of light, so they only will bud in the winter.
Now you've got seeds, you can easily just plant them in the ground and see if they'll grow, or you can sprout them in a number of different ways, for a few of these see my Seeds section. We'll start where you've already got your seeds sprouted. People often take too much care of there plant when they're young, and sometimes kill them. The most common cause of death to young plants is over watering, not under watering. Another easy way to kill your plants when they're young is by giving them too much nutrient. So don't water your plant everyday, just water them when the soil is starting to get dry, usually every 2 to 3 days, if you live in a real hot place maybe you'll end up watering your plants twice daily, but in most cases you only need to water them every couple days. And as for nutrients, use something with a fairly even N-P-K and mix nutrients at 1/3 the normal strength.
Now that your plant is out of the ground you've got a lot to worry about. First off is what is going to destroy your crop, kangaroos will eat them, bugs will inhabit them, wind and rain can whip your little plants to death. Basically there isn't any way of stopping the weather, but you can stop the animals and the bugs. Constructing a simple fence out of chicken wire and stakes will save your plants from the animals, and for the pests use some sort of soap spray, whether home made or commercial.
As soon as your plants have grown 2 to 3 weeks they start there vegetative stage when the plant is growing at its fastest. At this point you may end up having to water your plant daily. Plants need lots of Nitrogen and Potassium at this time so make sure they get a sufficient supply of both.
With a bit of care you can grow your plants to monsters, if you happened to plant your plants during winter or spring they will most likely grow to be huge and bud a year later when the next winter comes. If you planted the plants in the summer they will grow to quite a decent size and start budding that winter.
When winter hits and small flowers start to form (tips), give the plants a nutrient that is around 20-20-20. Keep them on this level of nutrients until about two weeks after tips started forming on the plants. At this point you should give plants more Phosphate and some Potassium with only a little Nitrogen needed.
After plants have budded for about 8-10 weeks they will be ready to harvest. You can tell when the buds are ripe by looking at the pistils, if they have started to turn brownish or orange or something other than there original white color they are nice and ripe and ready to harvest. The seed pods will swell with resin where there are no seeds present and the buds are ripe with golden and red hairs.
The time you harvest your plants will affect what sort of high the buds are going to give you, if u take small portions off earlier they may be better then buds from later, some people like earlier harvested buds some like later harvested buds, harvest buds when they are to your liking. Newer growers often get very excited and want to harvest right away! Don't harvest the whole plant in a case like this, take buds from the middle or top of the plant and let other buds ripen further.
If you use a magnifying glass to look at your plant you can see little crystals of THC on the plant, if they are clear then it is the best time to harvest. If they are mostly turning brownish in colour then the peak of potency is over and the buds are rapidly losing potency, so harvest them immediately.
After you've harvested have a look at the Drying and Storage section.


Personally I prefer hydroponically grown pot, the strongest pot is supposed to be outdoor grown pot, but its rare, and hydroponically grown pot seems to always be strong. Because of that more guaranteed high potency, I prefer it. Plants also take less time to grow hydroponically. The disadvantage is the fact that a lot more effort must be put into a hydroponic garden, and it is easier to mess up with hydroponics. When growing indoors, make sure you have an oscillating fan as it is very important for the plants life.
Hydroponic systems fall into two categories, which are passive and active systems. Passive systems are cheap and easy to make and are a great way to be introduced to hydroponic growing. Passive hydroponic systems require no pumps, drains, flow meters and paths making them very simple indeed.
The two common types of Passive systems are the Wick and Reservoir systems. The wick system is more involved than the reservoir system, since the wicks must be cut and placed in the pots, correct holes
must be cut in the pots, and a spacer must be created to place the plants up above the water reservoir below. This can be as simple as two buckets, one fit inside the other, or a kiddie pool with bricks in it that the pots rest on, elevating them out of the nutrient solution.
  A small wick would be going from the reservoir to the pot to give the plants water. A wick system is more of a hassle than a reservoir system with not much more in the way of results, so maybe a better idea would be to construct a reservoir system.
The reservoir system needs only a good medium suited to the task, and a pan to sit a pot in. If rockwool slabs are used, a half slab of 12" rockwool fits perfectly into a kitty litter box. Plants grown with reservoir hydroponics grow at about the same rate as wicks or other active hydroponic methods, with much less effort required, since it is by far the simplest of hydroponic methods.
Now we come to active Hydroponic systems, the ultimate in personal cultivation. The thing with active systems is the sky is the limit, they're always bring out new and improved products, and there is always something else you can add to your system to make it better. Your basic equipment required is pots, a pump, a reservoir and a light. This can add up to quite a bit so don't plan on using a setup like this unless you're not worried about breaking the budget by a few hundred bucks.
The common sorts of systems are drip systems and capillary systems. Drip systems, as the name says it have drippers and continuously drip small amounts of water onto the plants. These can be very cheap if you only have to buy a few pots, some drippers, a growing medium, a reservoir and a pump. They can also get nice and complicated where you add two reservoirs, flow tables and a whole bunch of jargon. Capillary systems are usually made up of something like 4 pots, some black tubing a pump, and a reservoir. These can also be made more complicated, like I said there is always something you can add to your system.
Systems like these can be obtained from your local hydroponic shop as well as full instructions on how to assemble them. It is easy to customize a system to your own needs and wants. So for more information go to a hydroponic shop!

3.  Sea of Green

Sea of Green (SOG) is a technique developed by the Dutch, and if done properly can be one of the most effective ways of always having a crop. This is the theory of harvesting many small plants that mature fast. To get a continuous supply you can have many plants at different stages of development. So when you harvest 4 plants you add 4 plants to the garden and the process continues.
When plants are just starting to grow have about 4 plants per square foot, each one being in their own pot which they will stay in until mature. after they mature a bit give each plant a square foot to itself, this will allow a large enough top cola to develop without large amounts of stem with not many bottom branches.
If all plants are started at the same time they will create a green canopy, thus the name sea of green. Only very little amounts of light will go below this level but that doesn't matter because the grower is only concentrating on the top parts of the plant. Some sort of light trellis like Nylon poultry fence will help the plants from drooping due to their heavy top colas.
An excellent place to have a SOG system going is in a closet with about 4 Shelves. One shelf can be for seedlings, one for plants in the vegetative stage, one for plants in the preflowering stage, and one for flowering plants. Large expensive lighting isn't really needed, fluorescence or HPS or MH lamps below 400 watts can be used. A reservoir system would work great in a SOG setup, using something like a kitty litter box for a reservoir.
The main thing your concentrating on is the top cola. Lower parts of the plants are trimmed to improve airflow under the canopy of growing tops. Use these cuttings for clones.

4.  Seeds

You've got seeds, now you're going to have to start them off. But what way is the best? Its you're choice, here is a few different ways on how to sprout your seeds.
1. Straight into the soil, the easiest and most basic way.
2. In rockwool or vermiculite, this is for when you are going to grow hydroponically only, don't transfer plants from rockwool!!
3. Paper towels, take a few wet paper towels, fold them together and place the seeds in the middle, put them between two plates and check everyday.
4. Soak your seeds overnight in distilled water them place them straight into your medium
5. In water, put all your seeds in a jar full of water.
As soon as seeds sprout, very carefully put them into your medium with the sprout pointing down being careful not to touch the sprout, tweezers are useful for doing this.

5.  Vegetative

Plants begin their vegetative cycle as soon as they sprout. The plant will be photosynthesizing as much as possible, so if you are growing indoors put the timer for your light on for 18 to 24 hours. During vegetation a 20-20-20 solution with trace minerals is excellent.
If you are growing indoors it is a good idea to simulate wind by bending the stems back and forth very gently. This will strengthen the stems so that they can support heavy buds at the top.
You can prune plants to shape them how you like. If a growing tip is cut it will grow into two growing tips which can be cut and grown into four growing tips and so on. This is good for filling plants out in certain areas or shaping them to how you desire. The only problem is that once you have cut the top middle growing tip you have ruined what would've been the strongest bud on the plant.

6.  Flowering

When it is time to force a plant into flowering is your decision. Anywhere between 1 foot to even 12 feet is ok, the choice is yours. To make a plant start flowering you have to reduce its light cycle to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. One of the most important things to note with the dark period of flowering is that if it is even slightly interrupted it can stall days to weeks of flowering.
Flowering plants primarily need lots of Phosphate, 5-50-17 or 10-20-10 should do the job. Trace elements are also important. Pruning should be done as little as possible during the flowering period. If work needs to be done on the plants while in the dark stage use a green light as this will not bother the plants in any way, otherwise the light of what a pale moon would give off will do but only for a very short time (maybe 5 minutes).
Keep humidity low when plants are flowering. Buds are very susceptible to mold and rot.
Within 1 to 2 weeks small white hairs will start to appear on your plants. After 3 to 6 weeks these buds will be mature and will need another 2 to 3 weeks to ripen. Make sure you dont touch the buds! After the pistils on the plant are swelling with THC and the buds have white, red or orange hairs all over them they are ready to harvest.

7.  Soils and Planting Mediums

There is a wide variety of soils and mediums available, so take your personal preferance or mix to make a growing medium with lots of good attributes.
Lava is a preferred medium on its own or as a part of a mix. It is porous and holds water both on its surface and in the irregular spaces along its irregular shape. Lava is an ideal medium by itself but is sometimes considered a little too dry. To give it more moisture-holding ability, about one part of wet vermiculite is mixed with 3 to 6 parts lava. The vermiculite will break up and
coat the lava, creating a mdeium with excellent water-holding abilities and plenty of air spaces. If the mix is watered from the top, the vermiculite will wash down eventually, but if it is watered from the bottom it will remain.
Perlite is an expanded (puffed) volcanic glass. It is lightweight with many peaks and valleys on its surface, where it traps particles of water. However, it does not absorb water into its structure. It does not break down easily and is hard to the touch. Perlite comes in several grades with the coarser grade being better for larger containers. perlite is very dusty when dry. To eliminate dust, the material is watered to saturation with a watering can or hose before it is removed from the bag. Use of masks and respirators is important.
Rockwool is made from stone which has been heated then extruded into think strands which are something like glass wool. It absorbs water like a wick. It usually comes in blocks or rolls. It can be used in all systems but is usually used in conjunction with drop emitters. Growers report phenomenal growth rates using rockwool. It is also very convenient to use. The blocks are placed in position or it is rolled out. Then seeds or transplants are placed on the material. Possibly the best medium.
Vermiculite is porcessed puffed mica. It is very lightweight but holds large quantities of water in its structure. Vermiculite is available in several size pieces. The large size seems to permit more aeration. Vermiculite breaks down into smaller particles over a period of time. Vermiculite is sold in several grades based on the size of the particles. The fine grades are best suited to small containers. In large containers, fine particles tend to pack too tightly, not leaving enough space for air. Coarser grades should be used in larger containers. Vermiculite is dusty when dry, so it should be wet down before it is used.
1.    4 parts topsoil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite. Moist, contains medium-high amounts of nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering.
2.    3 parts topsoil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Moist but airy. Medium nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering.
3.    3 parts vermiculite, 3 parts perlite, 1 part sand, 2 parts pea-sized gravel. Moist and airy but has some weight. Good for all systems, drains well.
4.    5 parts vermiculite, 5 parts perlite. Standard mix, moist. Excellent for wick and drop emitters systems though it works well for all systems.
5.    3 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Medium dry mix, excellent for all systems.
6.    2 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam, 1 part peat moss. Moist mix.
7.    2 parts vermiculite, 2 parts perlite, 3 parts styrofoam, 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part compost. Medium moisture, small amounts of slow releasing nutrients, good for all systems.
8.    2 parts topsoil, 2 parts compost, 1 part sand, 1 part perlite. Medium-moist, high in slow-release of organic nutrients, good for wick and drip systems, as well as hand watering.
9.    2 parts compost, 1 part perlite, 1 part sand, 1 part lava. Drier mix, high in slow-release of nutrients, drains well, good for all systems.
10.    1 part topsoil, 1 part compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part lava. Dry mix, high in nutrients, good for all systems.
11.    3 parts compost, 3 parts sand, 2 parts perlite, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts vermiculite. Moist, mid-range nutrients, good for wick systems.
12.    2 parts compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part styrofoam. Drier, high nutrients, good for all systems.
13.   5 parts lava, 1 part vermiculite. Drier, airy, good for all systems.

8.  Lighting

Hopefully if you plan to grow indoors and are going to buy a light, you have a few bucks saved up because you really do get what you paid for. There is a wide range of lights now days. By far the best is HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lamps. They emit the highest amount of lumen per square foot by far over Fluorescent and incandescent and a fair bit more than MH (Metal Halide) lamps. Also, they emit the right colored light spectrum's that can be used for both vegetative growth and flowering. While MH lamps are better suited to only be used during the vegetative stage of the plants life.
It is possible to do a combination of HPS and MH lamps by using the MH lamps for vegetative growth and the HPS lamps for flowering. This is only a small amount better than just using HPS lamps though so it is only recommended if you have a large budget. HPS lamps can be used to grow a crop from start to finish. Tests show that the HPS crop will mature 1 week later than a similar crop under MH, but it will be a bigger yield, so it's better to wait the extra week.
In an indoor garden it is important to receive between 1500-3500 lumens per cubic foot. During vegetative growth plants should receive 18 to 24 hours of light. During the flowering stage in life they should receive 12 hours of light per day.
 HPS150                                    6,000
 HPS250                                    8,500
 HPSU400                                 50,000
 HPS600                                   92,000
 HPS1000                                 140,000
 MH100/U/MED                           9,000
 MH175/U                                  3,000
 MH175C/U                               12,000
 MH250/U                                 22,000
 MH250C/U                                1,500
 MH400/U                                 36,000
 MH400C/U                               36,000
 MH1000/U                               10,000
 MH1000C/U                             80,000
 MH1000/U/BT-37                    110,000
 MH1000/C/U/BT-37                 110,000
 MH1500/U                               55,000

9.  Nutrients

N-P-K stands for Nitrogen-Phospate-Pottassium, it is a percentage of how much nutrients there is in a solution for example 20-20-20, this has 20% Nitrogen, 20% Phosphate and 20% Potassium.
Marijuana also uses Calcium, Sulphur, and Magnesium. And in smaller amounts boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, iron, and manganese. These can all be sufficiently be supplied by getting a nutrient that contains Nitrogen, Phosphate, Potassium and trace elements.
Just because the plants don't need as much of the trace elements and secondary elements doesn't mean that they need none, these are also quite important in the growth of Marijuana.
Here is a talbe showing how much Nutrients are needed at different stages of a plants life:
|                                                           |    N        |    P        |   K          |
| Germination - 15 to 20 days          | 110-150 | 70-100   | 50-75      |
| Fast Growth                                    | 200-250 | 60-80     | 150-200  |
| Pre-Flowering                                 | 70-100    | 100-150 | 75-100   |
| 2 weeks before turning light down|                |               |               |
| Flowering                                        | 0-50         | 100-150| 50-75     |
| Seeding - fertilized flowers             | 100-200  | 70-100  | 100-150 |
10.  Drying and Storage

The best way to dry out mature buds is to hang them in a well ventilated place for about a week or two. Buds that are dried like this taste the best. You can also dry buds in a paper bag. Dry buds until the stems are brittle enough to snap, then cure them in a sealed tupperware container , burping air and turning the buds daily for two weeks.
Use a zip-lock bag to seal the bag with no air inside. Freeze or refrigerate, and bud and seed can be kept for years this way.

11.  Breeding

Select your most potent and fastest growing plant to clone. Or use a male from your fastest growing plant with a female of your most potent plant, the combinations are endless. Breed together plants with certain attributes and keep breeding until you get the ultimate strain that you can call your own.
Seperate male plants from the females and put it somewhere with some sort of light, you don't need much jstu a few hours a day will do. Put a piece of paper under the plant to catch the pollen it drops. Put the pollen into zip lock bags and freeze until the females are ready for pollination. Use a large ziplock bag that has pollen on the sides, put it over the top of a branch and zip tight at the bottom. Shake the bag and stem and let sit for an hour or two, then shake again. Remive it a few hours later.
It is best to cross two very different varieties of plants as interbreeding can affect potency of plants.

12.  Male or Female?
Make sure that as soon as you've identified males you get rid of them! Here is a picture of how to identify the different sexes:



At 5 February 2012 at 11:11 , Anonymous Anonymous said...



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